Travelling journal Ghana February 2026 2/6

EWIA CEO Ralph Schneider is currently in Ghana with Jonathan Baumann, the executive assistant. Read on to find out what their day is like, who they’re meeting, where, when, and why.

Day 5: February 13, Friday

So far, we haven’t had many on-site appointments. A trip to Kumasi is now planned for next week. It’s scheduled for Thursday and Friday—two days on the road, visiting clients, and staying overnight in the capital of the Ashanti Region.

Our housekeeper Naomi keeps surprising us with creative food combinations. Jonathan is now struggling with the spicy food. Tonight, we’re heading to the German get-together in Cantonments, supposedly the most luxurious and expensive suburb in Accra, located in the La Dade Kotopon Municipal District. Numerous representatives from foundations, federal agencies, and the German Armed Forces will be in attendance.

Day 6: February 14, Saturday

Saturday in Accra. An extra hour of sleep. I’ve gotten out of the habit of keeping the air conditioner running all the time. At some point during the night, I wake up and feel cold. That’s why I cool down my room for about two hours before going to bed and just leave the fan running. What stands out right now is the fluctuating water pressure. In the evening or at night, there’s no water pressure at all. That means water just trickles out of the faucet and into the toilet tank. Luckily, when I want to take a shower at 8:00 a.m., the water is back.

Today we have to take care of breakfast on our own. When I left the “Quattro” restaurant on Thursday (Day 3), I noticed a new café called “Claire.” This is a good opportunity for us to try it out for breakfast today.

I know a lot of cafés in Accra, but this one is different. It’s modeled after a European coffeehouse. Spacious, high-ceilinged rooms, smartly dressed staff, and an exceptionally extensive menu. As usual, I ask about the café’s background; it opened just last March and is Ghanaian-run (not Lebanese, as is so often the case). The service is excellent, which is an absolute rarity in Ghana. Attentive, competent, nothing is overlooked, and everything is handled with speed. Today is Valentine’s Day, and the place is decked out accordingly; you’re practically overwhelmed by white and red balloons. Almost all the tables are reserved. By Ghanaian standards, we’re very early, but shortly thereafter, quite a few guests—some in groups of 10 or more—start pouring into the café. As we leave, the owner thanks us effusively and says he’d like to see us again soon. I think the tip had something to do with that.

We’re letting the day slip by very leisurely. I’m only working for about three hours today; Jonathan is getting us some shawarma. I had no idea they served this in Ghana, and to my shame, I’ve rarely eaten it.

This is the real Africa

In the evening, we head to Osu, Accra’s nightlife district. I dare to drive right into the heart of it. I wanted to have a truly traditional Ghanaian meal with Jonathan. We discover a street restaurant; tables and plastic chairs are set up on the sidewalk. A tilapia grill is operating just around the corner. Banku is served as a side dish. Drinks are brought by street vendors. This is real Africa. The tables are all full. We are the only two white people there. The tilapia is fresh and crispy. However, it’s coated in an extremely spicy green pepper sauce, and they serve a large extra portion of the sauce on the side. It’s accompanied by tomato salad with hot onions. Jonathan is brave and tries the banku. By the way, this costs an extra 5 GHS. Banku is a kind of fermented dumpling prepared in a plastic bag in boiling water. The dumpling is made from sourdough cornmeal and cassava flour. I’m familiar with it, so I decided to pass. It’s not my taste, but in Ghana it’s considered a specialty. You eat both the fish and the banku with your fingers. That’s why a bowl of water and dish soap is served on the side. We’re constantly being approached by street vendors.

Another unique feature in Ghana is the egg vendors. Women carry boiled eggs on their heads and sell them to passersby. An egg costs 4 GHS. It is then cut open right in front of the buyer. The vendor spreads some homemade chili sauce on it, folds it back together, and hands it to the buyer. Jonathan had to give it a try. I’ve been in Ghana for a long time, but I’m still a bit skeptical. On social media, people are raving about this snack.

We then head further on to “Republic,” a Ghanaian open-air bar. The place is buzzing with life. The bar takes up more or less half the street. Barrels are set up as tables everywhere. Depending on the number of visitors, more and more chairs and tables are placed out on the street. The street is also covered with green carpet—which is actually more like plastic turf. Hip-hop is playing. The venue pays homage, through its decor, to various revolutionary leaders, from Che Guevara and Fidel Castro to the more dubious African rebels. The weather is hot and humid, the music is pretty groovy, the people are in good spirits, and the mojitos are strong. The girls strolling down the street leave no doubt that they’d be quite open to financial offers.

Day 7: Sunday, February 15 – Accra

​​The day had two more surprises in store for me. Nana told me yesterday that he’ll probably be leaving EWIA. Another company has made him an offer he can’t refuse. That hit me right in the gut. How long have we been walking this path together—ten years, eleven years?

Changes

I met Susann and Peter at the German get-together at the “Rockefellas” restaurant in the Accra-Cantonments neighborhood. Peter had been a colleague of Timo’s in Takoradi for a long time, back when they were both working in bank restructuring. Peter told me that Philippe, the owner of Fanta Lodge, had indeed sold the place and left the country. Philippe was a veteran of the industry. I had stayed there three times and spent days by the sea. Once even with my wife Karin. Philippe had been talking for several years about wanting to sell and leave the country. For several years, he failed—either because of his asking price or simply due to circumstances. Now an era is coming to an end. Life is change.

Let's see what tomorrow brings!

Feel free to follow Ralph on LinkedIn!